Attic: Examine the exposed structural frame/ceiling joists, as well as openings around pipes, ductwork, chimneys, and the hatch. Each of these areas should be insulated or caulked with the proper material. To prevent fire hazards, recessed lights should not be covered, but instead a three-inch space allowed around each light fixture (unless the fixture is rated as insulation covered). If there are electrical boxes located in the ceiling's floor, they should be sealed with flexible caulk and covered with insulation. There should be a vapor barrier (tar or Kraft paper, plastic sheeting) under the attic insulation to prevent moisture from passing through the ceiling. To keep airflow open, be sure that vents are not blocked by insulation. The minimum insulation level is R-30

Walls: To determine the existence and level of insulation in walls, select an exterior wall, turn off the circuit breaker or inactivate the fuse for any outlets on that wall, remove the cover plate from an electric outlet and carefully probe the interior of the wall with a long, thin object. If resistance is felt to the probe, it should indicate the presence of insulation. You could also make a small hole in an unobtrusive place on an outside wall to allow you to see if, and what kind of, insulation is present.

Basements: Unheated basements should be insulated. A minimum level of R-19 under the living area flooring is recommended. If the basement is heated, the minimum recommended insulation for the foundation walls is also R-19. Water heaters, hot water pipes, and furnace ducts should be insulated as well.

Lighting: Electricity costs for lighting account for approximately 10% of your energy bill. Half of the energy used for lighting is wasted in unoccupied rooms or inefficient lighting sources. Energy conserving lighting can be as simple as flipping a switch to the off position or using more efficient light bulbs. Request our Fact Sheet on Energy Efficient. For more information link to: www.energystar.gov

The Professional Energy Audit

During a professional home energy audit the auditor will examine the outside of your house and each internal space, as well as assess past utility bills. To prepare for the audit:

• List existing problems or concerns you have with any part of your home, such as drafts and condensation.
• Copy or summarize your home's energy bills for the past several years. Your utility company can provide these if you have not kept them. The energy audit will take into consideration such house features as its size, the number of windows and doors, seasonal thermostat settings, each room's amount and time of use, and other related factors. Professional auditors may use several tests to determine energy efficiency:
• A blower door test to find a home's air infiltration rate. A strong fan mounted into an exterior door's frame pulls air out of the house. This lowers the air pressure inside and causes higher outside air pressure to flow through all unsealed openings and cracks. This useful information is used to correct air leakage, moisture condensation, drafts, and possible indoor air pollution problems.
• A thermographic inspection or infrared scanning test to determine any air leakage in your home. This is done with use of an infrared video and still cameras which see light in the heat spectrum. Thermography can determine whether or not insulation is needed or if it has been installed correctly.

Benefits of a professional audit include accuracy and possible immediate energy conserving measures at the time of the audit. A residential audit of four to eight hours generally costs between $300 to $500, depending on the work needed.

Page 2 of 2      1  2